Farmers Markets are becoming ubiquitous throughout the Puget Sound and across the country. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, there are nearly 4,800 farmers markets in America. Last week we were at the Washington State Farmers Market Association (WSFMA) conference held in Renton. The organization now has 114 members, an increase of 16 percent from four years ago.

Despite their popularity, farmers markets face tremendous challenges. Many markets have seen slowing or no growth in 2009. According to Jackie Aitchison, Executive Director of WSFMA and of the Poulsbo Farmers Market, there’s greater competition for vendors and customers and increased demand to keep markets open year round, while maintaining a sustainable business operation. Chris Curtis, Director of the Neighborhood Farmers Markets Alliance in Seattle, wore the headlamp she uses to start and end market days to demonstrate what it is like to operate during the dark winter season.

Many market managers do not make a living wage or have health benefits.  At the WSFMA conference, attendees paid tribute to Jodi Bardinelli, Kirkland market manger, who passed away recently from liver cancer that had spread to her lungs. She did not have health insurance, so by the time she consulted a doctor about her breathing problem, it was too late.  She passed away less than two months after diagnosis.

Folks often visit farmers markets not only to buy fresh foods, but also to meet local farmers. We would urge everyone to get to know their market managers as well. They are the unsung heroes of local foodways. Their responsibilities include maintaining a balanced mix of vendors (i.e., purveying a wide variety of foods), overseeing booth safety, securing health permits, and marketing. But we see their most important work as creating community between farmers and neighborhoods.